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Showing posts with label cape cod. Show all posts
Showing posts with label cape cod. Show all posts

Monday, October 05, 2009

Ilya the Manatee Last Seen Headed Towards New York City

The last time anyone saw Ilya the manatee on Sept. 25, he was hanging around the docks of Milford, CT, (the middle of the state's coast) presumably headed towards New York City and then the warm water he needs in Florida. I got to write a fun story about Ilya for New York Magazine and to talk to a bunch of manatee rescuers, identifiers and caretakers along the way.

Ilya may have already passed New York since Milford is only 60-some miles away. Manatees normally only swim about 3 mph--aside from short burst of up to 20 mph--and they sleep half the day.

If Ilya turns out to be hanging out in New England still, he's in trouble. The U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service might try to rescue him if he lingers. Last year they tried to save Dennis the manatee from Dennis, MA, by trucking him 27 hours to Florida in the back of a rental truck, surrounded by a heating blanket and medical care. He died, but Nicole Adimey, who runs the USFWS rescue program, says that he was in bad shape to start; they can truck manatees around the country. "They're pretty resiilent animals, actually," she says. They would've grabbed him sooner if he stayed in one place.  Terry Clen, the Dennis harbor master, says Adimey instructed him to do what is normally forbidden with manatees: give him a hose to keep him happy and in place.

Clen says this year Ilya looked healthier and so Adimey told him to be sure the manatee didn't get food or drink so he'd keep moving. Clen says the toughest part of New York harbor (aside from the busy boat traffic) will be Hell Gate, the narrow passage to the East River with tough currents.



We only know of a handful of manatees making it through New York harbor. In 1995, biologists were so alarmed to see a manatee as far north as Chesapeake Bay they named him Chessie and flew him home. Tagged, he went up up the next two years, reaching Rhode Island and passing right by the Statue of Liberty, says Cathy Beck, a wildlife biologist who runs the manatee identification program for the USGS.

About every other year since, a manatee spotted north of the Chesapeake and all of the ones they've ID'd have been males, Beck says. In 2006, one popped up next to Chelsea Piers, then near the Tappan Zee Bridge in Westchester. Did he miss the turn for Long Island Sound? Maybe--but a manatee did make it to Cape Cod that year. And manatees have been spotted by Montauk, meaning they bypassed Manhattan.

Manatees were spotted in the Chesapeake in the 1800s, Beck says. Did they used to come here before we killed them all? Is global warming letting them push north? Are these just bachelors looking far and wide for a female? Or is Florida getting crowded with manatees because they've recovered so much? All of those are going theories, but nobody knows.

Becks, like all manatee scientists, likes to emphasize how little we know about the endangered, enigmatic species everyone loves. We don't know why they travel or how many there are--or were. We think it's 4,000 or so and numbers are up. But, Save the Manatee doesn't want anyone to get too self-congratulatory about manatee recovery.

Becks was surprised when she figured out it was Ilya heading north. She's seen pictures of him for years--all either around Miami, where he was first sighted with his mom in 1994, or more recently in the Keys. Already a boat propeller had taken a hunk of his tail. Ilya played with another manatee calf named Napolean, so a biologist who was a fan of The Man from Uncle named him Ilya. The next year he took a boat in the forehead, which left him with a white circle there. Those make him easy to identify. Biologists know he's tried to mate, says Becks. But since male manatees for a mating herd that chases a female, we don't know if he was successful.

The few manatees that have ventured north have peculiarly stopped at the same towns (Dennis, MA; Port Judith, RI, for example) and in some cases even visited the same storm drains for a freshwater drink."We're seeing them at the same places because those are the best places for manatees," says Becks--not because they're following a trail. They can detect subtle differences in how warm or salty water is. They need to live close to the shore to eat leaves and stay warm in winter. That means they're around boat docks in Florida. "It's not unusual for Ilya to come into a marina," Becks says. "That's just what manatees in Florida do."

We may never know how Ilya's journey home went. One manatee went 14 years between sightings, Beck says. Or he could pop back up at the dock he drank from in New Jersey. I hope somebody sees him soon and it's down south.

Want to see manatees? Your best bet is by power plants in Florida in the winter. Check out this map of where to see manatees and other unusual animals.

Wednesday, September 16, 2009

Cape Cod Shark Update: Look Further Up the Coast, Captain Says

Yesterday we reported on how the Great White Sharks that are closing beaches on Cape Cod are also drawing shark tourists. Today another seal boat captain tells us they're looking in the wrong spot.

Captain Keith Lincoln of Monomoy Island Ferry says that people are mistakenly hanging around Chatham Lighthouse since that's where the shark was first sighted by kayakers a eating a seal in August. "
That is all due to the misleading information given by the media," says Captain Keith. "Massachusetts Department of Fisheries page shows all the taggings being done three miles south of the lighthouse near the area where South Beach and South Monomoy Island attached in 2006."

Looking at the Fisheries map here, he's totally right. Excellent tip, Captain Keith. (Though they do also show pictures of sharks offshore of the lighthouse.) He also warns that even if you're in the right place, the odds of seeing a shark are pretty impossible. The tagging teams use spotters on planes and perches 35 feet out of the water.

Captain Keith reports he's "calls about seeing the sharks, which is nearly impossible to guarantee." I think the seal tourists of Cape Cod have gotten spoiled; the tour boats can guarantee sightings because they're dealing with the east coast's biggest colony of gray seals, which is somewhere around 10,000. Normally wildlife watching is no sure thing.

Captain Keith, a 20-year veteran of the seal tours, says the sharks (and attendant media frenzy) come every year. "
I think this year is a little different in that the sharks showed up in a large number all at once." The seal cruises have been popular since 1991 and continue to get more popular with a new tour company starting this year, amid the recession, Captain Keith says. "So that alone tells you people are interested in the seals." He doesn't anticipate any shark frenzy curbing enthusiasm for the seals. A bigger threat to the tours are the shifting sandbars and regulations about where they can dock, he says.

Seeing sharks is pretty iffy, but if you go out this fall, you can see lots of shorebirds like oystercatchers and sea ducks like eiders, scoters, and buffleheads. And in June, Monomoy is the Cape's best spot to see mating horseshoe crabs pile on the beach.
Overall their populations are down about 90% on Cape Cod in the last few decades, but researchers have shown that Monomoy National Wildlife Refuge has some of the highest densities left

Meanwhile, if you really want to see a shark off Cape Cod, check out this guy at Nantucket Shark Dives, who does shark dives with chum 30 miles off Nantucket and gets to see lots of blue sharks.

Where to See Seals (and maybe sharks). The tours often require a minimum group to make it worth their while to go out as their business tapers off in the fall.
Monomoy Island Ferry
Usually runs April - December
90-minute cruise
Adults $30, Kids 15 and under $25
Look for signs for the Rip Ryder
Monomoy Island Ferry and USFWS Headquarters.

Beachcomber
Chatham's Municipal Fish Pier on Shore Rd.
(508) 945-5265
Adults $27, Seniors $25, Kids 3 -15 $23, Kids under 3 are free.

Blue Claw Boat Tours
Orleans
Adults $25, Kids 12 and under $20
(508) 240-5783

From Nantucket (year-round)
Shearwater Excursions
(508) 228-7037
2.5 hours to
Muskeget Island
Town Pier in downtown Nantucket.
$90 Adults, $70 Children under 12

Tuesday, September 15, 2009

Sharks (& The East Coast's Biggest Seal Colony) Draw Tourists

When news got out that Chatham, MA's, gray seal colony--the biggest on the east coast--was drawing sharks that closed beaches, a funny thing happened. Or didn't happen. Instead of running away scared, more tourists came to this little town on Cape Cod's elbow to see some sharks, hoping for a picture, or at least a glimpse.

"It's a big draw," says Lisa Franz, executive director of the Chatham Chamber of Commerce. "We have traffic jams... People are still walking in today and saying 'Where can we see them?'"

Tony LaCasse, a former veteran Boston TV newsman, says years ago local TV news would've been filled with scared would-be swimmers. But that was before years of education that drilled home how very unlikely it is to be bitten, let alone eaten, by a great white shark in New England. (Last fatal attack: 1936) Now we get shark tourists. "It's a long way from Jaws," says LaCasse, where the premise was they couldn't possibly close the beach on the Fourth of July.

The sharks are coming because the water is (briefly) warm and because the seal population has grown unchecked--well, that is, until the sharks showed up. Seal populations were kept artificially low for decades--maybe centuries. Until the 1960s, Massachusetts even paid a bounty for each seal ("a nickel a nose" in the early 1900s). Now seals are making a comeback. Cape has the biggest population on the American east coast, with roughly 10,000 (no one's done a formal count since 1999, when it was 5,600), according to the National Marine Fisheries Service 2008 report on gray seals. A few hundred live on the islands off Maine. but the U.S. population of gray seals is dwarfed by the Canadian one: More than 200,000 on Sable Island, Nova Scotia and 20,000 on the St. Lawrence.

In August kayakers spotted a great white shark munching on a seal near Chatham Lighthouse. Five sharks were seen close enough to the shore that cautious to the shore and surfers to close beaches over Labor Day. Mind you, beaches closed two weekends earlier for strong waves and that didn't make the evening news.

So far, however, the sharks are hard to see off Cape Cod. (Though plenty of places elsewhere cater to shark tourists.) Paula St. Pierre, who has run the Beachcomber tours out of Chatham for 11 years, says she hasn't seen any of the characteristic dorsal fins herself. "I don't want to see any," she says, at least not chasing the seals. "I saw one seal out there yesterday that had a big chunk taken out and shortly afterwards expired."

If you're looking for sharks, go to their meal, the seals. Some people go to the beach by Chatham Lighthouse (where seals hang out) to try to see some fins in the water, but the best bet for seeing the most seals or maybe even a dorsal fin are the seal boats.

Even if you don't get to see a great white, you'll get surprisingly close to the seals, which often approach the tour boats, St. Pierre says. "Seals come right up to the boat," she says. "They're as curious about us as we are about them. Not only can you see them, you can smell them." When sharks appeared in the past, the seals have even turned to the seal tourists for help. "In years past seals have tried to climb in the boat," when they've been afraid of sharks in the water, St. Pierre says. She had to fight the urge to help them up like a dog.

Seal-watching has become its own mini-industry on the Cape, with Beachcombers taking out 200 people a day at the peak of summer. About a half dozen seal tour operators line the coast.

No one is sure what will happen if the seals continue to draw such large numbers of sharks. Will there be a movement to get the seals to leave? (Tricky, because of the Marine Mammal Protection Act and certainly controversial.) Will Chatham have to install shark nets like they have in Australia? Or will shark tours move in to boost the economy?

"Summer would be a whole different story," says Franz. "September, it's like whoo-hoo, we've got a good shoulder season." Meanwhile, seal and shark watchers can get shoulder season rates now. And come winter, when the seal population peaks with migrants from Canada, you can get an even better deal to see a huge seal colony.

Where to See Seals (and maybe sharks). The tours often require a minimum group to make it worth their while to go out as their business tapers off in the fall.

Beachcomber
Chatham's Municipal Fish Pier on Shore Rd.
(508) 945-5265
Adults $27, Seniors $25, Kids 3 -15 $23, Kids under 3 are free.

Monomoy Island Ferry
90-minute cruise
Adults $30, Kids 15 and under $25
Look for signs for the Rip Ryder Monomoy Island Ferry and USFWS Headquarters.

Blue Claw Boat Tours
Orleans
Adults $25, Kids 12 and under $20
(508) 240-5783

From Nantucket (year-round)
Shearwater Excursions
(508) 228-7037
2.5 hours to Muskeget Island
Town Pier in downtown Nantucket.
$90 Adults, $70 Children under 12